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Catering to south-west London suburbanites for over 20 years, Riva is mostly staffed by long-timers. This shows in the efficient, thoughtful service: our waitress reeled off the day's specials with total confidence; tap water was kept topped up; and newspapers were offered to lone diners. There's an old-money vibe to the restaurant, as to the area. Hence Riva doesn't feel the need to be flashy; the walls of its modest-sized dining room are dotted with drawings of Roman architecture.
The food isn't overly showy either, with the menu containing rustic dishes such as porchetta with warm beans (admittedly fancied up with a drizzle of balsamic) and shareable starter platters. Main courses of sea bass with fennel, and very rare lamb with peperonata, pleased without wowing, leaving us wondering whether we'd have been better off with a bowl of own-made pasta or gnocchi. The finale, cinnamon ice-cream with crushed amaretti, honey and syrupy balsamic vinegar, was sweet, spicy and sour, and easily enough for two: as well it might be, at £7.
The all-Italian wine list deserves attention. With loyal customers welcomed like old friends, a meal here can feel like sitting in on a club you don't belong to - though you might be tempted to join.
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What is 'following'?020 8748 0434
Lunch served 12.15-2.15pm Mon-Fri, Sun. Dinner served 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 7-9pm Sun
Main courses £13-£24
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 3, pavement ), Babies and children welcome ( high chairs ), Booking essential ( dinner )Having lived in barnes for many years, this restaurant is my favourite, the food is fantastic
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