Roast

A big airy restaurant by Borough Market, Roast gets crammed on market days. Sundays are even more family friendly, while weekdays see a businesslike clientele; staff cope with all admirably. This time we ate from the restaurant menu, but in the bar (there's a truncated, much cheaper bar menu from 3pm), which meant people-watching through floor-length windows, and very comfortable seats. Best of British sums up Roast's mission statement; many native suppliers are name-checked on the menu. Cold poached Devon sea trout with wild garlic salad cream is typical. We tucked into pan-fried chicken livers with smoked bacon and toast, then relished roast Gressingham duck breast with beetroot and capers. Pot-roast featherblade of beef with spring vegetables was gelatinously good. Tomato, onion and pea-shoot salad made a refreshing side order; potatoes roasted in beef dripping, a delicious one. Torn between Neal's Yard cheeses and desserts, we plumped for rum and pear pudding (almost a rum baba), and ice-cream - a tangy blackberry water ice and a punchy coffee ice-cream - it was the right choice. Add to this an impressive drinks list including a fine roster of teas, plus a well-regarded breakfast menu, and you have a great all-rounder. It ain't cheap (the duck cost £20, the side salad £5), but we applaud its ambition.