Rosemary Lane

A London eccentric, Rosemary Lane has survived for some years despite an unlikely location beside a DLR viaduct in the part-redeveloped streets east of Tower Hill. Inside, the converted old pub is cosy and snug, lined with dark wood and colourful paintings, and staff are quietly charming.

The restaurant has won its under-the-radar reputation, and a core of regulars, for the refinement and individuality of its part-French, part global-influenced cuisine (ginger, lime and sesame are favourite flavours), and for the painstaking sourcing of fine, mainly organic ingredients.

A smoked Bresse chicken and waldorf salad was a lovely, refreshing blend, enhanced with pumpkin seeds and citrus mayonnaise dressing; chicken liver pâté with red onion marmalade and grain mustard also hit the right notes, and complimentary scoops of lemon sorbet between courses were another nice touch.

The menu included two vegetarian mains: delicious gnocchi with red chard and mushrooms, in a beurre blanc sauce that was both subtle and richly buttery, and a delicately herby risotto with mixed greens. Meat- and fish-eaters are also well supplied, with excellent roast pork belly and sea bass among menu regulars.

Wines include an unusual number of quality Californian labels. It's busier for lunch than dinner.