Roussillon

You might spot a red-coated Chelsea pensioner on your way to this calm, sober restaurant not far from Sloane Square, and you'll likely encounter an older clientele inside too.

The lunch deal is excellent value, including half a bottle of very good wine from a choice of ten, and several interesting little bites in addition to the three courses. It's a shame this is only available during the week; dinner prices are eye-watering.

Roussillon is renowned for revering seasonal vegetables. It has a vegetarian tasting menu, and even the decor plays homage to veg in colourful contemporary artwork on the walls. Sometimes this enthusiasm for produce leads to over-abundance in a dish; cod came with artichokes, samphire and sorrel, but we weren't convinced the delicate flavour of each ingredient gained much in combination. Raspberry louis was described as a light mousse, which indeed it was, albeit covered in chocolate with a layer of jelly and praline: a dessert for the very sweet-toothed.

Service is attentive if sometimes, like the food, fussy; a splatter on the tablecloth was immediately covered with a napkin as if too shameful to behold.