Salusbury

The Salusbury is a modern affair, with several concerns taking place under one roof. There's a food store, where you can buy delicatessen staples or sit and eat pizza, a separate wine shop, and the pub and dining room. The bar - with its traditional decor and groups of punters drinking Breton cider, Asahi beer or Italian wine - contrasts markedly with the plush dining room, walled off around the side. Here, leather banquettes and smart upholstered chairs attract wealthy customers. Service was attentive and helpful on our trip, but the food, despite a promising menu, was disappointing.

Minestrone had all the flavour of boiled vegetables in their cooking water; beans, pasta and garlic weren't in evidence, and the vegetables were chopped as fine as bricks. Beef carpaccio had a silky-smooth texture, yet lacked seasoning. Main courses varied in quality too. Pappardelle pasta with duck ragù was our only wholly successful dish; the own-made pasta had bite and flavour, and the ragù was rich and meaty. Another main, Elwy Valley lamb chops, was unappealingly greasy, served with decent mash but watery spinach. The Salusbury may look the part, but something seems to be awry in the kitchen.