Sauterelle

The imposing Royal Exchange building houses three branches of the upmarket D&D restaurant group. City slickers can discuss the day's events over oysters in the Grand Café downstairs, a cocktail in the Mezzanine Lounge, or a smart meal at Sauterelle, also at mezzanine level. If the view down over the bustling courtyard and glittering designer boutiques isn't enough to entertain you, peer over the pass to watch the chefs preparing their fresh, modern take on French food.

The set menu is great value, and no less inventive than the carte, with cheaper cuts such as ox cheek slow-cooked and paired with vibrant herby bulgar wheat. Care is taken in presentation, and a green and yellow courgette salad sang of Mediterranean sunshine. Less convincingly, confit salmon was served asymmetrically on the edge of a plate, threatening to tip into our laps.

Service is swift and smiling, though the sommelier's attempt to push the more expensive wines by the glass wasn't so charming. And the trek down to toilets shared with the rest of the building slightly takes the sheen off the glamorous setting.