Sketch: The Gallery

'Why have less when you can have more?' has been the attitude at Sketch, Pierre Gagnaire's wonderfully OTT gastro-playground for well-heeled scenesters. Now a decade old, The Gallery (the more casual of Sketch's two main dining offerings) had a revamp early in 2012, with input from Turner prize-winning artist Martin Creed. Creed's work is everywhere you look. Work No 1347 is four large-scale, primary coloured paintings on all four walls, and 96 kinds of marble zig-zagging across the floor. You'll be sitting on, eating off and drinking from Work No 1343, a collection of mismatched chairs and tables, laid with a hodgepodge of cutlery and glasses, no two the same.

Gagnaire has overhauled the menu, although the trademark global pick 'n' mix is still in evidence, drawing on influences from Japan, Italy, Spain and Britain - all underpinned by classic French cuisine. Our starter, Hervé This 63C poached egg (named after the famous creation of the French chemist This, who also coined the term 'molecular gastronomy'), was spot-on - the white just-cooked, the yolk still runny - and subtly set off by slow-cooked leek and flaked pollack and a scattering of pine nuts.

Equally good was sea bass paillard, pounded flat before being very lightly cooked by hot miso butter poured over it, topped with sliced artichoke and bits of green-black seaweed.

Less convincing was a lacklustre starter of burrata cheese with basil and tomato ice cream, served on undressed rocket leaves. The savoury ice cream did the cheese no favours and left us, literally, cold. A main of udon noodles with tofu, enoki mushrooms and miso broth lacked the umami kick we were after; not even a paste of browned onions stirred into the broth could deliver the goods.

Desserts range from the classic (a selection of ice cream, £7.50 for three scoops) to the playful ('big mac', a lemongrass macaron on sweet wine jelly with grapefruit marmalade).

Prices, as you'd expect from such surroundings are steep (£28 for a starter - ouch), but if you scour the menu, you can find items that are less taxing to the wallet, particularly vegetarian options. The wine list is an imaginatively chosen world selection served by a knowledgeable Canadian sommelier and service is sweet and switched-on.

Sketch is a place with wow factor and is great first-date material, but come prepared for your wallet to take a bit of a pounding.