Skylon

A large, open-plan space in the Royal Festival Hall complex, glitzy Skylon commands jaw-dropping views across the Thames from its massive windows. It's a great place for sundowners, and the cocktails and wine lists in both the brasserie and restaurant sections are impressive too.

In recent visits, the food hasn't quite lived up to the surroundings, but we've noted a recent return to form. A pre-theatre menu in the brasserie (better value than the rather pricey à la carte) had decent choice, with dishes that showed no lack of imagination.

A starter of puy lentils, enlivened by a sweet-wine reduction and salty feta and olives, was simple but effective. To follow, roast cod with chickpeas, tomato and chorizo arrived generously proportioned and well cooked (although a crisper skin on the fish would have been welcome). A meaty treat - grilled onglet steak - was well aged and served properly rare. Pudding of vanilla crème brûlée, served in a little Le Creuset pot, was smooth-textured and not too sweet.

With chirpy, professional service rounding things off, Skylon is somewhere that, if you catch it right, has the makings of a special night out.