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Rebecca Mascarenhas's Barnes eaterie has notched up a quarter-century of service. The smart rear dining area is still a calm, pale-hued sanctuary (although noisy when busy, thanks to the low ceiling), while the front café-bar has more comfortable seating, including a couple of banquettes, and a charming semi-private room to one side. Artworks dot the walls throughout.
The classy service and impressive wine list remain, but the seasonal menu seems to have dulled of late - more prosaic ingredients, simpler dishes - and prices have risen.
Cooking can still be good: chilled courgette soup with parmesan chantilly made a velvety, flavoursome starter; and a main of tender braised spring lamb had satisfying Middle Eastern overtones, thanks to a cumin-flavoured jus and imam bayildi. The good-value set menu yielded an excellent fish cake (the right ratio of fish to potato, and a crisp coating) in a lovely chive velouté, but the starter salad of violet artichoke, olives, purple potato crisps and pickled lemons was an incoherent grouping of tastes and textures. Desserts made the most of summer fruits; strawberries, cherries and gooseberries all appeared, the latter in a lovely light, creamy fool.
Next door, Sonny's food shop sells enticing if expensive treats.
Sorry, booking is not available at the moment.
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What is 'following'?020 8748 0393
Bar Lunch served noon-4pm daily. Brunch served 10am-4pm Sat; 10am-noon Sun. Restaurant Lunch served noon-3pm daily. Dinner served 7-10.30pm Mon-Thur; 7-11pm Fri, Sat. Set dinner (Mon-Thur) £16.50 2 courses, £19.50 3 courses
Both Main courses £16.50-£19.50. Set lunch (Mon-Sat) £14.50 2 courses, £16.50 3 courses; (Sun) £18.50 2 courses, £22.50 3 courses
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Babies and children welcome ( children's menu; high chairs ), Booking advisable ( restaurant ), Separate room for parties ( seats 18 ), Available for hireThey are not serious about offering good food or for that matter good service. It certainly wasn't good enough for me - even though Heston Blumenthal was sitting, eating in the booth next to me - I certainly wasn't impressed!
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