Sonny's

Rebecca Mascarenhas's Barnes eaterie has notched up a quarter-century of service. The smart rear dining area is still a calm, pale-hued sanctuary (although noisy when busy, thanks to the low ceiling), while the front café-bar has more comfortable seating, including a couple of banquettes, and a charming semi-private room to one side. Artworks dot the walls throughout.

The classy service and impressive wine list remain, but the seasonal menu seems to have dulled of late - more prosaic ingredients, simpler dishes - and prices have risen.

Cooking can still be good: chilled courgette soup with parmesan chantilly made a velvety, flavoursome starter; and a main of tender braised spring lamb had satisfying Middle Eastern overtones, thanks to a cumin-flavoured jus and imam bayildi. The good-value set menu yielded an excellent fish cake (the right ratio of fish to potato, and a crisp coating) in a lovely chive velouté, but the starter salad of violet artichoke, olives, purple potato crisps and pickled lemons was an incoherent grouping of tastes and textures. Desserts made the most of summer fruits; strawberries, cherries and gooseberries all appeared, the latter in a lovely light, creamy fool.

Next door, Sonny's food shop sells enticing if expensive treats.