The Atrium

In terms of self-promotion, the Atrium is as reticent as can be. From outside the 4 Millbank building, you'd be hard-pushed even to tell that a restaurant lies within. Once inside, you descend a sweeping staircase to arrive at the central 'terrace', a surprisingly bright, sunken area situated some way beneath a conservatory-style roof. It's like dining in a rather pleasing modern hotel lobby. The place is quiet most evenings, busier at lunchtimes, thanks to the thrusting politicos who talk shop and pore over The House parliamentary mag. The menu has been improved since our last visit, now focusing on the Modern British dishes it does best. There's still a couple of pasta options (rigatoni with porcini cream and oyster mushrooms; squid ink linguini with mussels and prawns), but for the most part it's the likes of braised lamb shank with celeriac mash, or Gloucester Old Spot pork chop with black pudding. Tasty but short of remarkable, the food is on a par with gastropub grub, albeit at a bit of a price hike. Still, set menus and offers currently abound, so check before you book.