The Avenue

Surrounded by purveyors of fine wines, cigars and yachts to the world's wealthy, Avenue has a glamorous if somewhat clinical sense of occasion. The long narrow bar gleams with bottles of everything you could imagine, but quite possibly can't afford. With tables on two levels, a long skylight and artful lighting attempting to diffuse the overall coolness, it's a handsome place that would impress clients or suit a slightly formal date.

Finnish chef Mikko Kataja's hand is clear in the kitchen. Thick slices of Severn & Wye smoked salmon with a silky-smooth broad bean purée and exquisitely nutty warm rye bread, and lacily thin slices of beef carpaccio with celeriac and puréed parsley, were beauties to behold. Mains of chargrilled lamb with spring onion fondue and mint jus, and a perfectly grilled fillet of sea bass with carrots, a rich red pepper purée and buttery crushed new potatoes, demonstrated finesse and top-quality ingredients.

Puddings include the trendy sea-buckthorn (served here as a set cream with yoghurt sorbet), and a rich chocolate delice accompanied by poached cherries and a sour-sweet cherry sorbet: taste bud tinglingly good. To keep down the bill, look out for set menu bargains.