The Capital

An oasis of calm among hectic nearby department stores, this discreet old-school hotel restaurant offers indulgence - at a price. It's an intimate dining room favoured by tourists and mature regulars, the corporate vibe softened by splashes of bold pink upholstery. Jérôme Ponchelle oversees kitchen affairs, giving top billing to new-wave dishes as well as French classics.

On our lunchtime visit, we ordered from the extremely well-priced set menu. Prawn ravioli, its filling deliciously chunky, made a marvellous match with an Asian-inspired broth of lemony coconut milk infused with ginger and mild chillies. Roast, boned quail served with lentils wasn't as notable - especially as we couldn't detect any of the promised bacon aromas in its foamy garnish. We loved the sea-fresh creativity of roast cod fillet, however, which came glistening with juicy mussels and surrounded by buttery seaweed sauce.

Sadly, the meal was let down by a simple staple of roast lamb; tough and unyielding, it was an unequal partner to an outstanding meaty jus. Desserts didn't hit the mark either: an excellent vanilla ice-cream was overshadowed by dry, powdery brownies and grainy chocolate sauce. In compensation, service was seamless and the wine list, although pricey, has a decent selection by the glass.