The Glasshouse

The Glasshouse might not grab the headlines or the plaudits of some of Nigel Platts-Martin's more high-profile restaurants (Chez Bruce, for one). Yet for the past ten years, chef Anthony Boyd has been sending out some of the most cleverly conceived and beautifully presented food in London. Despite the name and proximity to Kew Gardens, there is little in the way of botanic frippery. Only a scattering of paintings and a long sweeping, textural wall could take your attention from the main attraction, the food. From a seasonally driven menu, Boyd does magical things with pink slivers of wood pigeon breast lurking among crisp bacon and frisee, topped with a gorgeously crunchy deep-fried truffled egg. And can there be more compatible platefellows than juicy chunks of lamb rump, saffron couscous, piquillo peppers and crisp, crunchy falafels? Even the safer dishes, such as a simple breast of chicken with mousserons, peas and broad beans or a fresh pea soup with shredded bits of ham hock are still deeply satisfying. In summer, finish with a strawberry sorbet with strawberries and meringue that is like eton mess without the cream-laced guilt.