The Mercer

These handsome old bank premises have been sensitively transformed into a pleasing restaurant, unfussily decorated and with kind lighting. There's a bar too, offering cocktails alongside the substantial wine list (plenty by the glass and carafe). Staff are young and friendly. On a midweek evening, the place quietly buzzed with a mixed clientele (even the odd dating couple). Starters run from ox-tongue salad with pea shoots to comfort options of hot goat's cheese and fig toasts with spiced green lentils. Mains, though, are the stand-out. From melt-in-the-mouth calf's liver (with bubble, grilled bacon and onion gravy) to slow-braised venison shank so tender it fell off the bone, to decent Mercer pie (rump steak, mushrooms, London porter ale) - British meat and game were given a fine showcase. Seared scallops with artichoke mash, leeks, and lobster dressing was good too, if rich, though a side of roast garlic potatoes wasn't garlicky. After that it's a hard choice between the classic puddings, savouries and British cheeses. We solved the dilemma with a plate of 'lovely things' (five sweet items) and sorbets - including, unusually, poached pear. Not cheap, but less pricey than many City restaurants, and definitely more relaxed.