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The Modern Pantry

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47-48 St John's Square, EC1V 4JJ Full details & map

Café: Creative contemporary

 
© Britta Jaschinski

Time Out says   17 Users say 3/5 Rate it

Posted: Oct 20 2011

Light and bright, the Modern Pantry is decorated in shades of white and grey. There are formal dining rooms on the first floor, a more relaxed space on the ground floor, and outdoor seating on St John's Square (plus a small 'pantry' selling sandwiches, pies, cakes and so on, to one side).

The wonderfully eclectic all-day menu is the same throughout. Adventurous dishes run from small plates such as sweetcorn, date and feta fritters with rose yoghurt, or chorizo scotched quail eggs with tomato relish, to main courses such as grilled tamarind miso-marinated onglet steak with cassava chips, smoky apricot relish and salad leaves; or panko and parmesan-crusted veal escalope with asparagus, mustard sauce and salsa verde.

Breakfast might feature grilled chorizo with caramelised plantain fritters and slow-roasted vine-ripened tomatoes, while there are green tea scones with gooseberry compote and clotted cream for afternoon tea.

The woman responsible for these exhilarating ingredients and combinations is owner/chef Anna Hansen; she grew up in New Zealand (and worked with Peter Gordon for years, running Providores with him until 2005). To see her in action, book a cooking demonstration (£100 a head), which features canapés and prosecco, a 90-minute demo, and a four-course dinner.

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The Modern Pantry details

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Address

The Modern Pantry

47-48 St John's Square EC1V 4JJ

Transport Farringdon tube/rail

Telephone

020 7553 9210

The Modern Pantry website

Café Breakfast served 8-11am Mon-Fri. Brunch served 9am-4pm Sat; 10am-4pm Sun. Meals served noon-10pm Mon; noon-11pm Tue-Fri; 6-11pm Sat; 6-10pm Sun. Restaurant Lunch served noon-3pm Tue-Fri; 10am-4pm Sun. Dinner served 6-11pm Tue-Sat

Both Main courses £15-£22.50. Set lunch (Mon-Fri) £19 2 courses; (Sun) £18.50 2 courses, £23.50 3 courses

Credit cards AmEx, MC, V

Facilities

Tables outdoors ( 13, square ), Babies and children welcome ( high chairs ), Booking essential ( weekends ), Separate room for parties ( seats 40 ), Available for hire, Disabled ( toilet )

The Modern Pantry map

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Comments & ratings 3/5 (Average of 17 ratings)

By Marcus - Feb 1 2012
5/5

What an evening - went based on the Time Out review and had a good read through all the comments below and other online reviews before turning up. We did not have a reservation but the Maitre'd was accommodating and had the four of us seated within 15 minutes - acceptable given no reservation and it was 8pm on a Friday.
The service and food was brilliant and I thought the portions were reasonable.
I would recommend if fusion is your thing.

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By Mike - Jan 25 2012
5/5

Cant quite believe what I read. The Modern Pantry has made me brunches (this is their forte) on 4 or 5 occassions and each time it has been brilliant with service to match... I'm inclined to let the knockers knock the place so I can always get a table!!!

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By Dave - Dec 6 2011
2/5

Very disappointing experience overall. Service and wine were great I have to say. The house champagne, a Deveaux, was surprisingly cheap and tasted great. Service was also attentive throughout, but the food let the whole experience down.
First of all, my starter of salmon sashimi was drenched in vinegar, completely overpowering the fish. On top of that, the salmon pieces looked butchered rather than finely sliced.
The main, I had the seabass, came in a completely bland and tasteless sauce and to top it off, i found several fishbones in the fillets.
I was not impressed to say the least. They did offer complimentary coffee and tea, but at this level such mistakes on every dish are inexcusable.
Not recommended

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By Rudy - Nov 8 2011

Great quality food for Brunch, not huge serves, but tip top quality. Nicish coffee, very good crab pancake, good smoothie. Recommended.

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By steve - Oct 20 2011
5/5

Wow, what negative reviews! My partner and I had a fantastic lunch there just a few months ago and loved the entire experience. We thought that the food scored very highly both on flavour and appearance. It was reasonably pricey but not outrageously so. In fact, we enjoyed it so much we have booked up to go back there again in December. I shall report back.

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By Tony - Oct 13 2011
4/5

Having been to the Pantry restaurant on a few occasions, I can understand many of the comments left below. The 'cakeage' charge fiasco described by one visitor is incredible and reviewers are right in suggesting that the portions aren't large enough, particularly where the breakfasts are concerned. But this is a Tale of Two Pantries because round the side of the building is a little room where you can get takeaway lunches and coffee. This is a real gem. The coffee is the best I've had in London - it leaves Monmouth Coffee in the dust - and although the Pantry gets its beans from nearby Caravan, the coffee at the latter is not as good for some reason. Furthermore, the cakes are delicious and always inventive, from beetroot muffins to pastries topped with mojito icing. The staff who man this part of the operation are really lovely too.

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By ka - Oct 12 2011
1/5

My girlfriend and I ate here the other evening and were very unsatisfied by our dining experience. All of our dishes where either bland or overpowered with one ingredient. This restaurants lacks congruity and most importantly flavor.

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By AG - Sep 7 2011
4/5

The negative reviews are a bit surprising. We turned up for a very late lunch this Sunday and had a great meal (around £20 each for 2 dishes including service). My main course of rabbit was excellent, my partner's vegetarian stack was also very good. An inexpensive wheat beer rounded off the experience nicely. Followed up by a great coffee at St Ali around the corner.

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By Jimo - Aug 21 2011
1/5

Service on arrival was bizarre...arrived around 9pm on a Friday night without a reservation and given a "well-this-is-pain-for-me" look from the maitre'd ...shuffling of papers, looking at computer screen, tapping buttons...then led to a room upstairs with a room full of empty tables...do they need to think this hard about whether they want our money? Then the food...truly weird concoction of flavours that simply did not work. Salmon sashimi drenched in some juice which totally masked the salmon, a completely tasteless whiting with salsa verde, rabbit enveloped in more spices than necessary. After that we desperately wanted something ordinary...at least the Eton mess tasted like it should. Total price for the meal (with a bottle of wine) was within range for this area, but the reputation of this restaurant in no way matches the food. The table service was excellent....Life is too short for wasted meals like this, donate your money to a charity or go elsewhere.

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By paulh - Jun 30 2011
2/5

i was given pointless warning that my omlette would be quite wet i..e soft/runny in the middle, that was my hope however it was overcooked and very disappointing. The crab salad lacked enough crab and the flavours all clashed rendering the pea shoots totally unable to be tasted. The cooked breakfasts look great but really i was expecting more; i don't imagine the proprietor was cooking on that day...

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By Paul - Jun 12 2011
1/5

Tried Modern Pantry a couple of times because Time Out give it such a good rating. But overall it's dreadful. Food is lacklustre and the service even worse. I ordered poached eggs once and only one egg arrives. I asked what happened to my other egg and the waiter didn't seen to understand. He eventually asked me if I wanted another egg, then went and got one, bought it back on a plate and slapped it on the table. I asked him if the eggs normally come as a duo and he said yes, he thought so.

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By Michael - May 28 2011
1/5

Three of us went here last night and were nothing but disappointed. The only thing going for the place is that they have a fantastic menu writer - everything on the menu sounded amazing, but what actually arrived on the plate was either as bland as a bowl of weet-a-bix or just plain wrong (in fact one of the diners went as far as to say "disgusting!" Not really the desired outcome at 20 quid a dish).

The chef is obviously more concerned with ensuring that the menu appears to have Pacific/NZ flavours in it than actually tasting good, or being edible.

Have read plenty of good reviews about this place, but most are dated 2009. It must have let its standards slip a loooong way.

To be fair - interiors are nice as were our cocktails and wine. Service and bathrooms, matched the food.

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By Abi - Mar 8 2011
1/5

I recently attended a birthday lunch at Modern Pantry on 6th March. We were a party of 15 and booked at extremely short notice.

The restaurant was very accommodating and attentive to all the guests including my 17 month son. But sadly, the entire occasion was marred with the addition of a "cakeage" fee.

The birthday girl's sister had made two large cakes for the lunch and we asked if we could serve these desserts. We were told that this was no problem for a "cakeage" fee.

None of the guests had ever heard of the charge but presumed that it would be akin to a small corkage - so we were happy to pay. It was only when we received the bill that we found out that this amounted to £30 per cake!

To say we were astounded is to be polite.

When we enquired why this charge was so high we were told that it was on the arrogant assumption that all diners would spend money on dessert. So not satisfied with patrons paying almost £50 per head the establishment felt they had to levy this farcical charge as well.

I have never been to a restaurant which applies this fee (and at such a level). Furthermore, not one person at the table had ever experienced the fee either. Nor is there any mention of the charge on the Modern Pantry website

Perhaps all 15 guests were unseasoned and raw gastronauts? And this was an usual feature at London venues. But googling the words "cakeage london restaurant" brings scant results - maybe one or two places.

It is not often that I find myself angry enough to complain but I decided to make an exception in this case. I would hope that Time Out will publicise this outrageous arrangement.

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By Valeria - Mar 2 2011
2/5

We visited the cafe for a late lunch on a Saturday and left very disappointed about the entire experience. The waiter looked hangover and in bad need to shower her hair; when taking our orders, she forgot the coffee and my husband main course arrived without the meat on the plate! My eggs were seriously over cooked but decided not to say anything as we just wanted to have our lunch and leave. Shame they could not leave up to your review!

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By Veronica Matheson - Feb 21 2011

Went on Saturday night with four friends and left feeling disappointed. The portions were small - my husband was hungry afterwards despite three courses and sides, and the food was tasty but cold. Mozzarella balls were cold and unpleasant, onglet steak was lukewarm on arrival and cold halfway through. Ginger cake was just out of the fridge cold. Service was pleasant. Dining room pretty. But won't be going back.

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By Emma - Jan 24 2011

We went on a saturday night just as they were opening, absolutely fantastic, food was wonderful as was the service. What a find I want to go back and try the whole menu.

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By Tamsin - Dec 31 2010

Went on recommendation from general web surfing and was very happy to have made this choice. We went for lunch and the food was fresh and deliciously combined with great service to boot. Left feeling sated but not uncomfortably full and will be going back to try the dinner menu.

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By Ooo - Aug 9 2010

Went to a brunch there yesterday. And it was actually the best brunch I had in London! I ate honey coated oats with seeds and yoghurt and my boyfriend had ricotta pancakes. The food was exquisite, and the service - perfect. For food, 2 cappuccinos, 2 freshly squeezed juices and a croissant we paid 30 pounds (service included). It was worth every penny and :)

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By Rebecca - Jul 15 2010

The Modern Pantry is great for take-away - fresh produce, tasty and well-priced meals. But it is a pity they haven't bothered to source take-away packaging that is either bio-degradable or recycable. A 15 minute lunch shouldn't stick around for 1000s of years. It's not that hard - many standard Asian takeaways have managed it, of if you want more chi-chi, talk to Moro, their stall at Exmouth market serves up in a bio-degradable paper carton.

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By Kelly S - Jul 5 2010

Went this weekend and was severly underwhelmed. The food was really over-priced - my friend's omelette was over £7, was tiny and was literally just an omelette on its own, not even any garnish. We had to ask three times for a jug of water. And the worst thing was the speed of service - it took over an hour for our food to arrive! Will not be going back.

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By Mike - Jun 11 2010

I went for dinner last Saturday, eating upstairs in the dining room, and agree with Time Out comments on service and atmosphere. The menu looked amazing, really well thought out, light yet indulgently complex and so I was really looking forward to my dinner. Unfortuately, what came out was nowhere near as good as it should have been. Both fish mains were a bit greasy, quite messy and pretty lacklustre - not horrible but very average. I booked a table for 7pm which was perhaps a bit early, my guess is that our food was made by an understudy as execution was severly lacking.

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