The Ritz

Tell someone you're going to the Ritz and the reaction will probably be an admiring gasp - the famous hotel still carries an enviable reputation. Its public dining room is perhaps the most spectacularly gilded in London. This, along with the courteous, formal service and the sense of theatre (the cloched plates, the silverware, the coat-tailed waiters) must be what keeps the place so popular with foreign businessmen, celebrating families and elderly lunchers - because it's not the food.

A few modern touches enliven the proficient and rich classical French dishes, although Londoners used to fine-dining restaurants will find the cooking unremarkable and anachronistic (along with the dress policy: 'gentlemen' must arrive jacketed and tied and remain so for the duration).

On our recent visit, both a starter of scallops with pea purée and a main of braised halibut with spring veg were victims of over-enthusiastic salting. The cost too is offputting: £39 at lunch for three courses (although this includes service); the wine list has no glasses below £10 and no bottles below £50. The Ritz without doubt still has a place in London, but sensible diners will find far better places to part with their cash.