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A few tables were already occupied when we arrived for a noon booking at Philip Howard's acclaimed Mayfair restaurant. By the time we left, the place was packed - and this is normal lunchtime trade. Small wonder: even ordering the set lunch, we were bowled over.
This may be fancy cooking, but it isn't prissy. Flavours are big and complex, and saucing is exquisite. A plump ravioli of king crab and red mullet sat in a sublime bouillabaisse-flavoured vinaigrette. The savoury velouté under a dazzling assembly of roast rabbit was good enough to drink in a cup. Garnishes are equally well judged. Plaice fillet came with cloud-like mashed potatoes and nuggets of razor clam; beef tartare and carpaccio with beautifully roasted beetroot and exquisite salad leaves. Raspberry crumble tarte with poached white peach and raspberry ripple ice-cream was heavenly. Complaint: the wine list is magnificent and international in scope, but you won't find much under £40.
Complaint: a very slight clumsiness from some waiters; one kept saying 'you're welcome' even when we hadn't said 'thank you'. The room is large, but has just 65 covers, which means plenty of space between tables. Some will find the decor impersonal, but you'll probably be focusing on the food - and you won't find it wanting.
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What is 'following'?020 7495 7100
Lunch served noon-2.15pm Mon-Fri. Dinner served 6.30-10pm Mon-Fri; 6.30-10.30pm Sat; 6.30-9.30pm Sun
Set lunch £30 2 courses, £35 3 courses. Set dinner £65 2 courses, £80 3 courses. Set meal £105 tasting menu (£170 incl wine)
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Babies and children admitted, Booking advisable, Separate room for parties ( seats 18 ), Available for hire, Disabled ( toilet ), Dress ( smart; smart jeans accepted; no trainers )I am very hard pressed to fault The Square. From the moment we entered the staff were a complete delight and this continued throughout the evening. They were friendly but not intrusive, knowledgeable but not arrogant. Every mouthful of food was simply exquisite and the wine pairing- utter perfection. The hushed tones and excited murmurings of the evening set a wonderful atmosphere. I would quite happily recommend The Square to the most captious gastronomers.
We went to the Square with great expectation having read great reviews of this restaurant. Unfortunately it was one of my our most disappointing restaurant
experiences I have had. we had the tasting menu and although some dishes were very good, the crab lasagne came with big pieces of crab shell in them (in 3 out of 6 of the dishes)Big enough to be a real danger. The halibut was overcooked and dry and the lamb was chewy and tasteless. There are much better restaurants in London at this price so do not waste your money going to The Square. To top it off they charged for water on our bill that we did not have.
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