Timo

With good-value set lunches and smooth, ingratiating service, Timo is popular with local office workers, yet come evening it also works as a date destination. The pale decor is airily elegant, the tables well spaced and the atmosphere serene.

The menu comprises a concentrated selection of classics along with more unusual alternatives, so conchiglie with pancetta, tomato and onion might follow carpaccio served with fennel (as well as the expected rocket and parmesan), or buffalo mozzarella with basil, marinated tomatoes and roast aubergines.

The dessert list isn't particularly inspiring (tiramisu, pear and almond tart, ice-cream and sorbet), but there's often an enjoyable selection of Italian cheese, served with own-made walnut bread and attracting a £3 surcharge. There's also a surcharge (£2) if you fancy having a main-sized portion of pasta, which means the tempting ravioloni stuffed with braised guinea fowl and cooked with thyme and beetroot butter rises to £12.90.

The wine list runs to well over 100 bottles, but not many of them duck under £30 - and even then not by much.