Tom Aikens

NB: this restaurant has very recently reopened after refurbishment. The picture above shows the new-look interior; the review below refers to the restaurant pre-closure.

It's hard to remember that Tom Aikens is still only in his thirties; the chef seems to have been through so many highs (and a few lows) in such a short time. Dining in his flagship restaurant is nothing as frenetic, and we were well looked after by a polite team.

We were immediately seduced by a selection of ten breads, followed by six stunning canapés (most memorable: a brandade with velouté of red pepper, and a pea mousse with ibérico ham).

Then, a master class in simplicity: poached lobster tail with English asparagus, asparagus mousse and chervil salad. For main course, Rhug Estate loin of lamb, marinated in ewe's cheese, was amazingly tender but restrained in flavour. This was paired with a hillock of finely shaved parmesan covering aligot potato, along with a slice of salty ewe's cheese and dried green olives. We were puzzled by the addition of an anchovy fritto, but a beignet of parmesan came from the top drawer.

Vanilla panna cotta - topped with a slice of salted black summer truffle, and subtly enhanced by black pepper - was sexed up by white chocolate, and truffle ice-cream, but entirely covered in too much truffle-oil foam.

To finish, don't leave without trying the brilliant petits fours. Wines are rooted mainly in France, and expensive, although two dozen are served by the glass.