Truc Vert

Even though it's in the centre of town, deli-restaurant Truc Vert has the warm welcome, user-friendly menu and happy chatter of an ideal neighbourhood brasserie. It's just that the prices are higher.

Customers are a mix of well-heeled locals, business people and tourists. The interior is country-kitchen functional by day, softened at night by tablecloths and dimmed lighting. Staff are cheery and aren't trying to turn tables.

In the evening, therefore, diners can linger over, say, chicken and vegetable broth followed by nicely baked hake fillet with ragout of leek, samphire, carrot, broad bean and roast cherry tomato, with lamb's lettuce salad and olive salsa.

There's always a steak too: an excellent bavette came with sautéed savoy cabbage, roast onion, and a stack of (unexpectedly cold) butternut squash. The day starts with big breakfasts, buttermilk pancakes or croissants; lunch sees quiche and salad combos, cheese and charcuterie plates as well as sizeable mains.

In the afternoon there's a tapas menu of dishes such as grilled thai-marinated tiger prawns, meatball with spiced tomato sauce, and fried squid rings with lime mayonnaise. An equally accommodating wine list runs alongside various teas, coffees, organic bottled juices, lagers and a Devon cider.