Two Brothers Fish Restaurant

Although it doesn't seem so long ago that this north London stalwart was refurbished, the vaguely New England coastal decor is starting to look, like the fish, quite battered - a result, we'd suggest, of Two Brothers' extreme popularity (Friday night queues are legendary) rather than lack of care.

Staff were on the ball, though it can take surprisingly long for orders to arrive at the close-set tables. Fortunately, the multi-generational crowd is friendly.

Apart from several bones in our haddock, the fish was superb, with a crisp coating and perfectly steamed fillet within; the cod was exceptionally hunky and flaky. It's worth splashing out the extra 50p for matzo. Portions stretch generously beyond the rims of the long oval plates, and accompaniments of chips, fresh-tasting coleslaw and mushy peas are good. Specials such as asparagus soup, caesar salad with prawns, and grilled kingfish with tomato relish, help mix things up.

Among the appealing drink options are reliable party-style house wines, Old Speckled Hen and Asahi beer.