Walnut

Walnut makes the most of its small space with a kitchen eyrie, the chef calling down to the waitresses when dishes are ready. We had initial qualms about a slightly stained menu and smeary glasses, but these were quickly dispelled by the restaurant's friendly lack of pretension, and the big, honest flavours of the food.

Cornish crab cakes were the perfect combination of coarse flavoursome meatiness and crispy crumb crust, while plump seared Scottish scallops were bursting with juicy sweetness. Chef-owner Aidan Doyle is keen on sustainability; all the produce is sourced from good-practice British farmers and fishmongers, and it certainly shows. The quality of meat was exceptional: from the pork belly, falling apart under our forks, to the chargrilled Oxfordshire ribeye with perfect chips. Sides of fresh greens and green beans were just that - unadulterated and delicious.

Puddings continue the theme: top-notch ice-creams from a Suffolk creamery, and a warm Fairtrade chocolate tart in the crumbliest of pastries. Walnut attracts a steady stream of loyal (and lucky) locals, so it's worth booking ahead at weekends.