Wapping Food

The Wapping Project has been underway for many years now. It occupies a barely converted late-Victorian hydraulic power station that hosts compelling art and fashion installations (often in the stunningly gloomy induction chamber through a door to the rear), contemporary classical music concerts and dance shows. The setting is wonderful. At Wapping Food, you dine under a towering ceiling, with a backdrop of red-brick walls, hauling chains and big industrial machines, with rust showing through their pistachio paint.

At weekend lunchtimes, grown-up families join lushly bohemian brunchers for simple but largely successful dishes, such as full-flavoured braised rabbit and fennel stew; fillet of sea bream served with cauliflower and lemon butter; or smoked sprats with pickled cabbage. Only the dessert disappointed on a recent visit; the gin and tonic sorbet (a menu regular) seemed to have melted and been refrozen, as it contained solid blocks of ice.

Our black-clad waitress was detached, though not inefficient; other staff members were all smiles. The interesting, all-Australian wine list, which includes dessert wines and plenty by the glass, has been joined by some fine cocktails; we enjoyed a soured elderflower collins in the garden by the greenhouse bookshop.