Water House

Described as a social enterprise and 'training restaurant' owned by the Shoreditch Trust, Water House - whose USP is its location bang on the Regent's Canal just north of Shoreditch - has all the accoutrements of a professional operation, with a modish interior, sparkling glassware and an Italian-slanted Modern European menu. Its slightly tucked-away location means it's generally quiet at the weekend - which can have its advantages: good weather meant we could eat on the canalside terrace.

A starter of smoked mackerel niçoise was a good mix of fresh ingredients in a zesty dressing. Other starters are more specifically Italian: the likes of panzanella salad, or buffalo mozzarella with speck, figs and balsamic. Carbonara with black squid ink pasta was a generous portion, warmly comforting and subtly flavoured. Roasted lemon and thyme risotto was less successful; flavours had gone awry - it was oversalted and too much lemon lent a harsh taste.

But we had asked the kitchen to leave out the butter, so perhaps this sent things askew. Still, sunny service, sunny weather and an enjoyable bottle of Backsberg chenin blanc, for a very reasonable £17.80, made for an all-round enjoyable experience.