Zaika

Housed in a former bank sumptuously furnished with sweeping silk drapes, substantial antiques and impressive flower arrangements, Zaika attracts wealthy business folk and tourists.

The kitchen aims high, with tasting menus, a menu gourmand, and the modern-Indian likes of masala foie gras, or scallops with coconut and lime foam. Cooking can be of a high standard, but it's too often inconsistent - and on our latest visit, service was surly.

A lamb platter started the meal well, with a satisfyingly juicy seekh kebab seasoned with green chillies and coriander then grilled over coals. However, tandoori chops were tough and inadequately marinated, and equally dispiriting was a mini samosa filled with bland fried mince (we've had better at local cafés). Shredded tandoori rabbit, piled on to a mini nan, also disappointed, lacking any discernible spicing.

Things picked up with the vegetarian thali; highlights included a splendid chopped okra masala, the crisp chunks cloaked in a garlicky tomato sauce. We also loved the soft pillowy cubes of paneer tossed with onions and peppers. Nevertheless, lacklustre basics (overcooked basmati rice and salty dahl) made us question the commitment of the team here.