Chez Liline

The fish shop next door offers some clue as to how seriously Chez Liline takes its fish - the same family owns both. The restaurant decor may be plain, with blue tablecloths, wooden chairs and white walls, yet the cooking is anything but. Chez Liline specialises in Mauritian seafood dishes, which combine French, Indian, African and Chinese influences. The wine list has some interesting French bottles too.

To start, tender squid sautéed with garlic and herbs (basil, tarragon and thyme) was more than the sum of its simple parts; and a warm salad of chargrilled seafood and fresh leaves tossed in vinaigrette was also well executed. Main courses continued the high standard. The distinct flavours of fennel and asparagus were skilfully balanced with sublimely delicate sea bass. Cuttlefish curry with rice and pickled vegetables (Mauritian dish of the day) provided perfectly cooked cuttlefish in a a rich sauce that complementing rather than overpowered.

Attentive but unhurried service makes this a great venue for a convivial evening with friends, although a woman eating on her own seemed frustrated by the pace.

Stroud Green Road may not be the most glamorous destination, but Chez Liline is worth a visit. Do check it's open before you set out, though: we've been disappointed by locked doors, especially at lunchtime.