Dizengoff

The experienced owner of this Israeli establishment has wisely decided to start offering a sensibly priced lunch menu. Business in this part of Golders Green has been on the decline, and even the set meal hasn't created a lunchtime rush. With few other customers to watch, you might contemplate the views of Tel Aviv on the wall (showing Dizengoff Street as its hub).

The main menu includes juicy grills - the lamb is usually tender and flavourful - and fried kibbe (a crisp bulgur shell with savoury meat filling). Rice is Iraqi-style and perfectly cooked. The set lunch offers a few starters including soup. Minestrone was hot and flavourful, and the chicken soup also gained praise.

From the spit comes lamb shwarma - a good-sized portion served with fluffy rice and a small salad of rocket, grated carrot and beetroot. Chicken schnitzel was less generous, but tender, with thin chips that could have been crisper.

Pleasant staff bring coffee, lemon or mint tea, but it's worth asking them to add a syrupy pastry for afters.

Linen tablecloths instead of paper coverings would improve the experience here, but then, times are hard.