Eriki

On a road that seems blighted with empty shops and 'to let' signs, Eriki stands out as a quality outfit. High-backed chairs of wood and metal, a zebrano-style floor, and elegantly framed tapestries on maroon walls transport diners to the luxurious serenity of a swish spa. The pan-Indian menu, which stretches from Kerala to the Punjab, is just right for the location, though the uniforms of the courteous staff are perhaps a tad too formal for the establishment.

Salmon, calamares, scallops and prawns all feature among the starters; vegetarians will be happy with their lot too. Birianis come in copper handis, most everything else is served in asymmetrical bowls. Dahi baigan (aubergine in spiced yoghurt) was sumptuously textured, but the spicing, despite the presence of onion seeds and a touch of fresh coriander, was more reminiscent of Anglo curry powder than the promised panch poran. Much better was the coupe glass of ras malai with mango sauce.

Wines by the glass are limited, but the Australian house chardonnay is a treat. For a decadent finish, try a post-prandial cocktail, such as the Smoky Fig made with scotch, fig liqueur and lime.