Geales

In business since 1939, Geales is the ultimate posh chippy and well positioned for its well-heeled clintele. Comfortingly old-fashioned fare is cooked with respect for quality ingredients, and served in unusually cosseting yet family-friendly surrounds.

Plates of precision-fried scampi and whitebait will transport diners straight to seaside holidays on the Isle of Wight; prices are on the high side compared to local takeaway joints, but still cheaper than the Solent ferry. The 'seaside pick'n'mix' is a nice light alternative to starters if you want to fully enjoy the tangy, crunchy, beer-battered fish (pollack, cod, haddock, sole) and tartare sauce - chips, rather meanly, are charged extra at £3.45 a bowl, but they're good. Moules marinière tasted wonderfully fresh with a creamy lemon- and parsley-accented broth. We were most impressed with the hazelnut brownie too, served with a scoop of blood orange sorbet.

Wine prices start at £15.75 a bottle and escalate sharply, but rest assured the cheapest viognier is a sound choice. A replica Chelsea Green branch opened in 2010, where we've enjoyed crisp-shelled fish cakes of smoked haddock and salmon.

Geales describes itself as no-frills, but the interior is all flouncy double tablecloths of black and white check, crystal wall sconces, and feel-the-depth high-backed chairs, so it's probably best to take that with a pinch of (flaky sea) salt.