Itsu

There's a distinct feeling of stepping into the future as you enter thisupmarketkaiten-zushi bar. Some tables for four and six are set at right angles to the conveyor-belt so that groups can dine together. Charming waitresses cruise around taking orders for drinks and hot dishes. Upstairs is a darkly intimate bar, where you can wait until your pager (provided at reception) beeps that a feeding place is free. We took up residence in a lavishly cushioned anteroom at the top of the stairs, but scurried back to the bar stools when it was invaded by a clamour of Knightsbridge 'valley girls'. Tuna sashimi, salmon 'new style' and duck crystal rolls from passing bowls (priced by means of discreet coloured rims) were all superb. To follow, beautifully flavoured grilled chicken teriyaki, served with a liquorice-like sauce, yummy tiger prawn tempura with a chilli sauce, and perfect crispy squid in spicy batter, all accompanied by a rather mean bowl of rice (at £1.50). We finished by grabbing a couple of vegetable bowls from the conveyor: edamame and tenderstem broccoli with sesame seeds.