Kings Road Steakhouse & Grill

What was Jimmy's has mutated into a King's Road version of a steakhouse. Two very plainly decorated rooms (a chandelier being the only expression of glitz amid tasteful tones and white tablecloths) are dotted with colour provided by jars of Coleman's mustard and bottles of Heinz ketchup. There's a mezzanine, but we opted for the more appealing ground floor, which has doors open to the pavement. A wallet-friendly set menu delivered generous portions of slow roasted tomato and red pepper soup, followed by plump moules marinière with triple-cooked chips, and a mousse-like vanilla cheesecake with blueberries - all good, though best of the lot was the portion of super-crunchy chips. An 8oz ribeye with peppercorn sauce (there's a choice of sauces) slipped down nicely, but was eclipsed by calves liver with crispy bacon and Pommery mustard sauce - a lovely, tender piece of offal cooked just so. Side salads (green, tomato and onion) were fresh and well dressed. Service was charming. KRSG won't win any prizes for innovation, but shouldn't produce many complaints either, particularly not with the fairly conservative local crowd.