Les Associés

This curious bistro has operated from the same Crouch End sitting room for over 20 years, and is showing its age. Not just in the decor, which could do with sprucing up, but in the cooking - essentially French, with English touches in the form of ample vegetal accompaniments (both on the plate and in a standard side dish served with main courses). Our vegetables were cooked imprecisely and, in the case of fried potatoes with a spiced coating, unappetisingly. The same imprecision marred main courses of duck, rack of lamb and black-leg chicken. The raw ingredients were fine, but dull, gloopy sauces added nothing. There were good things in our meal, especially a flavour-packed provençal fish soup and a special of roasted langoustines. But there were too many letdowns, culminating in a tired tarte au citron. The high point is the all-French wine list, especially the page of bottles imported by the restaurant and chosen with skill. The shortcomings don't seem to bother locals, who've kept this place going so long. We've eaten better here before, but would like to see more of the care that's shown on the wine list brought to bear on the food.