Bobbin

Tucked in a quiet residential street near Clapham Common, the Bobbin fits into 'good local gastropub' category. Formerly known as the Tim Bobbin, the pub changed owners at the end of 2009. Fast forward to the present and it also now has a new look, chef, menu and wine list, added bit by bit over the first year.

Diners can opt between eating in the cosy dark-blue pub or in the adjacent conservatory. The menu is short but well-considered, reflecting seasonality.

A starter of Jerusalem artichokes, walnuts and Cashel Blue cheese (£7) satisfied with its combination of earthy flavours. Two split bones were filled with gelatinous bone marrow, flavoured with garlic and rosemary. Mains included steak and lamb, but we opted for the line-caught coley (£13). The buttery white fish, served on a broth of baby carrots, salsify and fennel, got a flavour kick with a dollop of aioli. The dish came with so much broth that we ordered a side of chips to soak up the liquid.

Vegetarians needn't go hungry - a spinach, rocket and feta filo pie covered an entire dinner plate. The buttery layers of brittle filo pastry opened up to peppery wilted greens dotted with chunks of feta.
Leave room for dessert, it's worth it. The chocolate fondant (£5) came perfectly baked - oozing melted dark chocolate from its centre and paired with an own-made vanilla ice-cream.

The kitchen also makes its own eggy custard, which elevated the classic apple and rhubarb crumble (£5) to a more delicate treat.