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Gleaming white and uncompromisingly stark, save for a pop of colour from fresh flowers at the bar, Olivomare is intriguing. Lurking beneath its slick façade is a traditional Sardinian seafood restaurant - one of a clutch of Belgravia dining establishments from Italian owner Mauro Sanno, each with a strong reputation. The upmarket prices are indicative of the address and the provenance of ingredients, rather than the complexity of the well-considered menu.
Authentic seafood, fish and pasta dishes are fuss-free, employing fresh, high-quality produce, true to the motherland's rustic roots. The likes of salty spaghetti bottarga (cured grey mullet roe), paper-thin carasau bread and the sherry-like Vernaccia di Oristano house aperitif fly the Sardinian flag. Red mullet ravioli was subtly sweetened with roasted peppers, but the pasta itself was over-resistant to the bite. Chargrilled cuttlefish, a single slab in black ink dressing, lingering and powerful, was heavier-going than anticipated.
At times, the staff's coolness verged on the haughty, which marred the experience, as did the squeezed-in tables within ready eavesdropping distance of each other. Olivomare is a small restaurant with ambition, let down by its slightly brittle atmosphere.
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What is 'following'?020 7730 9022
Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-3pm Sat, Sun. Dinner served 7-11pm Mon-Sat; 7-10.30pm Sun
Main courses £19.50-£22
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 4, terrace ), Babies and children admitted, Booking advisable, Disabled ( toilet )Very much disagree with the review. I have been here a number of times and it is, in my opinion, the best Italian in London. The food is fresh, authentic and unpretentious, just what Italian food is all about.
Fantastic! Ultra fresh seafood, great sardianian wines, not a rip off given location. Jammed full of italians, which must say something
Ignore the review below. This place is brilliant (and my guests agreed). The Spaghetti Bottarga is especially good.
Sat outside on a beautiful London evening, sipping a lovely prosecco... the staff were friendly, perfect I thought! That's where the two stars came in. The food however was terrible. The fish tartar - just tasted of onions, and my pasta just tasted of full on garlic; My companions dish tasted of nothing!! (maybe that is because my taste buds had been killed by the onion and garlic?? - but then again he was also very disappointed).
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