Brasserie St Jacques

Claudio Pulze is a restaurateur as sure-footed and experienced as they get, so it says something about current restaurant trends if his latest place is a conservative, orthodox, rather unimaginative French brasserie. Perhaps when the future looks uncertain in these credit-crunch times, even innovators play safe and stick with the tried (tired?) and tested. Brasserie St Jacques lives up to its name by serving meals all day, but this is no Café Rouge you'd pop into for a coffee and sandwich. BSJ is designed to be a 'safe' choice for those who can afford it, as this is St James', and nothing in this neighbourhood comes cheap. Adding considerable gravitas, chef Pierre Koffmann is the menu consultant (25 years ago, Koffmann was one of the greatest chefs working in London). But on the menu we saw no traces of Koffmann's trademark élan; no stuffed pigs' trotters, and little that is distinctively Gascon. Instead, we find snails (catch 'em while you can, there's a worldwide shortage), roasted sea bass, steak sandwich and daily specials such as coq au vin. Foie gras is one distinctively Gascon note, and the terrine here was as good you get: fresh, smooth-textured, and rich in flavour. Salade niçoise was also correctly pert and proper, with no corners cut, tasting of the Mediterranean. The daily special on our vist was choucroute Alsacienne, a mound of sauerkraut garnished with cured, fresh and some smoked pork: in the Alsatian way, the portion was too large to finish, a hearty example of Germanic influence on French tastes. Desserts include classics such as crème caramel, tarte au citron, and even that 1970s revival dish, rum baba. BSJ is sited in a grand-looking room decorated in French mustard colours and retro banquettes to make it look as if it's been there forever; in fact, this site has been home to four restaurants in nearly as many years. Service was very proper and correct; it feels like somewhere you dress up to go to. Around us, the denizens of St James' - nearly all wearing suits - were lapping it up. BSJ does nothing wrong, but it also adds nothing new or invigorating to London's dining landscape. It should do very well.