Queen Adelaide

A characteristic feature of any self-respecting gastropub is the chalkboard menu. The Queen Adelaide houses a board at least ten feet tall, which is an indication of the sheer size of this sympathetically restored boozer in Shepherd's Bush. Spoilt for choice over seating, we headed for the dedicated wood-panelled dining area in preference to the centre bar and sun-trapped tables out front.

An imaginative breakfast menu (served at the weekend) allows stacks of pancakes to be washed down with 'hair of the dog'; eggs benedict came cloaked in an excellent hollandaise, though the yolks were overcooked.

Lunch and dinner deviate from standard British pub fare of beer-battered cod and sausages and mash to dishes showing Mediterranean and American influences. A starter ramekin of chilli-flecked crab was infused with garlic butter and served with a generous side of toasted soldiers. Barbecue ribs were meltingly tender, with the correct ratio of sauce to meat.

Desserts take you back firmly into the British camp, with sticky toffee pudding and Pimm's jelly flying the flag. Eton mess stood out as a triumph of own-made meringue packed into a sundae glass; an extra-long spoon was provided and we scraped out every last morsel.