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For a restaurant just around the corner from the South Ken museums, Madsen isn't nearly as packed as you'd expect. Instead, it's a cool, calm corner of Scandinavia: all elegant wooden ply furniture and classic Louis Poulsen lights, with dishes as simple, fresh and elegantly presented as the decor. Interesting lunch deals include 'smushi' mini open sandwiches (smørrebrød) on rye, with traditional toppings such as thinly sliced pork with red cabbage (flæskesteg), Greenland prawns, or roast beef with pickled cucumber.
The set lunch delivered some big fat pork meatballs (frikadeller) and a summery apple and elderflower trifle. Both dishes were pleasant, rather than thrilling. What turned out to be the star is something you might dismiss as a cliché: the pickled herrings. These are marinated on site, in onion, creamy dill, and tomato versions, combining freshness, sweetness, sourness and meatiness all on the same plate.
Considering Denmark's brewing prowess, it's a shame there were only two beers on our visit - though who could resist the amusingly named Swedish bestseller 'God Lager'? Blankets (IKEA, of course) provided for alfresco diners are a nice touch - a northern European custom we'd do well to adopt here.
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What is 'following'?020 7225 2772
Open noon-11pm Mon-Thur; noon-midnight Fri, Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Lunch served noon-4pm daily. Dinner served 5-10pm Mon-Thur; 6-10.45pm Fri, Sat
Main courses £11.50-£17.50. Set lunch £9.50 smushi; £14.95 vegetarian; £14.50 2 courses, £18.95 3 courses. Set dinner £24.95 2 courses, £29.50 3 courses
Credit cards MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 4, terrace ), Babies and children welcome ( children's menu; crayons; high chairs; nappy-changing facilities ), Booking advisable ( evenings ), Separate room for parties ( seats 14 ), Available for hire, Takeaway serviceWe went to Madsen to try something new for lunch. They serve open sandwiches on rye bread, lots of herring and meatballs and some interesting desserts. We really enjoyed our lunch and felt full, but healthy after the meal. The herring platter was lovely and my friends fish cakes great with green salad. My apple trifle dessert was refreshing and well presented and my friend tried their marzipan biscuit for dessert. We will definitely be back for more next time we are in the area.
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