Henry Root

Alhough it's self-consciously designed, and so clean-looking you wonder if anything as mucky as eating would ever be permitted here, the Henry Root is a small, friendly neighbourhood joint. Sit outside and you'll be gawping at footballers, models, Maseratis and other poseurs' marques, but redirect your attention to the food and all is cosy and kind.

Upscale starters - juicy oysters, potted Dorset crab, charcuterie - are excellent. Piccalilli and black pudding add a British tinge to proceedings. For mains, the large house VIP burger, served in a small, crisply toasted brioche, with fat, triple-cooked chips and slim slices of gherkin, was at the top of the range for that litmus-test dish. Lemon chicken breast with peas, and ballotine of lamb were also excellent. There are also daily specials and salads. The concise dessert list comprises neat, smallish versions of homely classics (gooseberry fool, lemon meringue pie), plus the odd comedy item (a parfait made from a Snickers bar).

All had the appearance, texture and combination of flavours to indicate loving preparation. The wine list is long, but offers few cheap options (our tempranillo, at £20 a bottle, was only satisfactory). Staff were super-friendly and helpful.