D'Den

Simmering at the centre of the cultural melting pot that is Cricklewood Broadway, D'Den is a remarkably inconspicuous Nigerian restaurant. Were it not for the steady stream of well-dressed African men lighting up outside, you wouldn't even know it existed. Inside, this isn't the glitziest of establishments; tables fill a narrow space decked with chintzy Africana, giving it the feel of a slightly upmarket shebeen. Nevertheless, something keeps the punters - everyone from Joe Public to Premiership footballers and visiting dignitaries - returning for more. The food is solid Nigerian fare, and the menu is one of the most extensive around, with delicacies such as abodi (cow intestine stew) and more traditional favourites such as okra soup. There's a late licence (the place is open until 6am at weekends), and live football matches are screened, making D'Den popular with a lively expat crowd. Our asaro came with a portion of tilapia so big it could easily have fed two, while a dish of beans, rice and plantain was far tastier than its humble title suggests. This was complemented by a spicy goat stew that was crying out to be accompanied by a cold, strong Nigerian Guinness.