The Real Greek

There's no escaping the fact TRG is a chain. Now eight branches strong, its latest outposts are in Shepherd's Bush's Westfield shopping centre and at Spitalfields Market (whose identikit 'makeover' has rendered it a mall in all but name). Not that this deters punters, who come for reliable but far from earth-shattering food in glossy surrounds. The Spitalfields venue sports attractive raised banquettes in inky leather, rust-coloured ceramic plates, rustic touches (baskets for lampshades) and a long, reconstituted-granite bar ideal for City lunches. Sundays see shoppers replace local workers in the outside seating area. As well as souvláki, served in mainland Greek style - wrapped in pitta and paper - the meze picks from the islands and beyond. Santorinian fava dip was smooth, bland but surprisingly moreish; tabouleh was bulgar wheat-heavy with barely detectable herbage. The pittas, grill-blackened and glistening with olive oil, are finger-licking. Thyme-sprinkled lamb cutlets were lean; greasy whitebait came with unremarkable lemon mayo; fresh, batter-less, pleasantly chewy calamares was the tastiest dish. The dance-lite music is fit for purpose, if the aim is rapid customer turnover. TRG is fine for a quick, dependable refill but not somewhere to linger.