The Bingham

This boutique hotel makes the most of its geographical serendipity - the views over the Thames from its terrace are sublime. Dining takes place in a chic room with twinkling chandeliers and flourishes of caramel leather and gold velour. Service was young and a little green; the staff's relaxed manner does much to lighten the formality.

Head chef Shay Cooper has devised several menus, ranging from a two-course set lunch to a seven-course tasting menu; there's even a children's menu. The setting could easily overshadow the food, but we found much to enjoy from the kitchen. Own-made breads followed by an agreeable foie gras parfait with apple and elderflower foam was a fine start. We also relished the flavours and textures of roast quail with soft cep custard, crunchy artichoke and morsels of luscious black garlic. Less thrilling were the indifferent ingredients used in a dish of hake fillet with chickpea gnocchi, squid, samphire, and red pepper reduction.

Portions are modest, but the dishes arrive attractively presented without being too dressy. Vanilla panna cotta came with poached rhubarb, rhubarb sorbet and a little vacherin: a winning combination that was superbly rounded off by a ravishing rhubarb and ginger consommé. The diverse wine list contains the odd affordable bottle and a good selection by the glass. We left with our spirits lifted; the Bingham is a tonic for the stresses of daily life.