Rivington Grill

The three-strong Rivington chain, owned by Caprice Holdings, now extends as far as Dubai; this Shoreditch original was opened by chef Mark Hix in 2003 and his influence is still clear on the menu. It's resolutely British, with, it claims, an emphasis on 'local' sourcing (although Bannockburn rib beef is surely only local if you live in Stirlingshire; see also Shetland fish, Yorkshire game, and so on). But the dedication to home-grown ingredients, free-range meat and responsibly caught seafood is admirable, and the kitchen produces solidly rendered dishes.

They're mainly reassuringly familiar (fish and chips, bangers and mash, steak, chicken pie), although often feel a bit pricey; a few show cheffier touches (such as sea trout with broccoli and clams, or ham hock with piccalilli relish and dandelion). In style, it's formal enough to lure in the City spillover for business jollies, but not to the extent of alienating the many casual creatives who populate the area. Service on our last visit did everything it needed to. The whitewashed walls, black-clad staff, crisp tablecloths and long, buffed bar make for a pleasant backdrop for breakfast, lunch or dinner, as does the East End modern art scattered around (another Hix hallmark).