Royal China

Most diners are probably none-the-wiser, but this outfit isn't part of the Royal China group (and hasn't been since some time in the last century), even though its decor remains strikingly similar to restaurants in the esteemed mini chain. The smallish dimly lit dining room has black lacquered walls decorated with golden landscapes and flying geese. Customers are a mixed bag of Putney locals and Chinese families from farther afield, who fill their tables with all manner of dim sum. We've found the snacks to be hit and miss in the past, but most dishes were agreeable on this visit: deep-fried yam croquettes were crisp, with a creamy filling studded with juicy morsels of pork; chicken feet in classic black bean sauce were deeply coloured and just as flavoursome. Fried dough stick wrapped with thin sheets of rice noodles was messy in presentation, yet a good rendition; ditto the prawn cheung fun. Fried rice with dried scallop and egg whites seemed greasier than it should be, but came in a fair-sized portion. Service was friendly, if a bit pushy. Note: the only credit cards accepted are American Express and Diners Club.