Sam's Brasserie & Bar

Sam Harrison's well-regarded establishment makes more effort than most to attract custom, with regular jazz and soul nights, wine tastings, BYO Mondays, and an accommodating menu that runs from breakfast via weekend brunch to full-blown dining; there's a children's menu too.

The ex-industrial space is equally appealing, with a separate bar (remodelled in autumn 2011) and a large dining area in white and grey, with oversized lampshades and thoughtfully planned seating. It's smart enough for a special occasion, informal enough for a family lunch.

Well-made cocktails and a discerning and affordable wine list are other bonuses, and staff provide helpful, well-drilled service. A shame, then, that our food lacked sparkle.

A starter salad of octopus, spring onion, pepper and chilli contained no hint of chilli and needed a tangier dressing; saffron risotto (a main) with peas, red pepper and manchego cheese was dull; french fries were tepid. Best dishes were a thick, flavourful gazpacho, and cardamom-tinged rice pudding with a caramel crust that managed to be both soothing and luxurious.

Seafood (Colchester rock oysters, whole prawns with tarragon mayo, South Coast mussels in a white wine broth) is a strong point, but elsewhere the kitchen needs a bit more pzazz.