Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room

Since its refurbishment in 2009, the Whitechapel Gallery has done a fine job of continuing the radical tradition of its exhibitions and keeping the East End on the map of major London art spaces.

The attached dining room hasn't been quite so consistent - Maria Elia reopened it in April 2009 to generally positive reviews, but a year later she was gone; the next head chef left in a matter of months.

Now, Angela Hartnett, of Murano and York & Albany, is 'consultant' here, along with a whole new catering firm, although you wouldn't know it unless you've looked at the website. There's no mention of Hartnett on the menu or in the restaurant - surely half the point of bringing in a high-profile cook is to flaunt their name?

Nothing has changed superficially in the room itself - it's still wood lined, smart, warm. The menu has been toned down from the sort of exuberant flavour combinations Maria Elia was famous for; now, it's more British, with only hints of the Italian influence Hartnett favours in her other venues.

Much is made of the menu structure - 'we encourage a combination of small and large plates to share,' we're told - very on-trend, but here it feels like an afterthought. They're basically starters and mains rebranded.

The food we had was good, not hugely exciting, not especially cheap. Pressed ham terrine came with nicely tangy picallili, but no toast: that costs extra. Lamb cutlets with salsa verde were just that - a well-presented trio of chops dressed with a smear of rather polite sauce.

Slip sole with brown butter and shrimps was the highlight, but again, any veg for variation cost extra: we chose a watercress salad (£3.50). The wine list is better value, with a small selection climaxing around £30.

A small cheese board was fine at £4.50, but the selection was served too cold. Water, commendably, is of the filtered tap variety; £1 per person gets you unlimited refills, although our first empty bottle was never replaced.

Big-name chef or not, it remains to be seen if this the kitchen rejig will make the restaurant as much of a destination as the gallery. If you're visiting an exhibition, though, remember: the café is a separate room, and the last time we visited, was well priced and well worth a visit.