Sofra

The Sofra chain has a formula for its four London restaurants: well-produced food and quick service. This relatively small branch is hidden in the small streets between Covent Garden and Aldwych. The long thin interior widens at the back, but tables still seem rather crowded together in the middle. Thick white tablecloths are offset by a scarlet wall, and metal vents snake across the ceiling. Incongruous as these are, the only jarring element was a painting of the crucifixion for sale on one wall. The traditional Turkish menu is augmented by steaks and vegetarian dishes, Turkish pizzas and a selection of daily specials. We started with a wonderful börek platter, the leek pastry having an outstanding mix of crisp and soft textures. Equally rich in texture was an exceptionally succulent portion of albanian liver. This was followed by a tender hünkar be?endi - stewed lamb on a bed of smoky mashed aubergine. We also sampled a nicely moist grilled sea bass that was beautifully orange in colour, accompanied by lightly steamed vegetables and mashed potato.