El Pirata Detapas

This offshoot of Mayfair's El Pirata has a much trendier look and buzzier feel than its long-running parent. The food style was set by young former chef Omar Allibhoy (ex-student of mega-chef Ferran Adrià at El Bullí in Catalonia), who has now moved on to his own venture at Tapas Revolution. Any connection with El Bullí can raise awesome expectations of culinary pyrotechnics; frankly, these won't be met here, but what you will get is refined, artfully prepared tapas well above the norm - at the same price as dead-ordinary elsewhere.

The renowned serrano ham croquettes are gorgeously creamy, and the mojo picón (a Canary Islands equivalent of brava sauce) with fried potatoes was both smooth and deceptively punchy. A mushroom risotto made with socarrat (the slightly burnt rice left over in a paella pan, apparently) had an original, toasty flavour, and our only problem with the black rice with squid and aïoli was a paucity of garlic. Wines aren't neglected, with a list that runs from quality house bottles to some of the finest new Spanish labels. Detapas is deservedly popular and often packed, but staff keep things coming with a laconic, very Spanish lack of fuss.