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Eating in what is essentially the entrance corridor of Sotheby's auction house is more fun than it sounds. A cosy but stylish space has been carved out, and the place is always full for lunch (it's a prime people-watching spot). The menu changes regularly, but the lobster club sandwich is a fixture. It's not for the price-conscious, but then neither is the auction house.
Typical dishes on the short menu are a soup, such as cauliflower with curry oil, or a starter, such as merguez with braised puy lentils, watercress and salsa rossa. Mains might feature roast partridge with wild rice and mushroom cabbage parcel with paprika sauce, or a vegetarian option - perhaps roast red onion, butternut, courgette and chickpea chilli, with cornbread, avocado salsa and chive crème fraîche.
We enjoyed flavour-packed roast cod with cockles, and an almost textbook steak frites with watercress and béarnaise sauce, slightly marred by saltiness. Desserts are dominated by a choice of fabulous ice-creams. Three scoops (marmalade; peanut, chocolate and salted caramel; redcurrant sorbet) were all amazing, but somehow bettered by a rich, creamy rice pudding with damson compote - possibly the best we've ever tasted. Further pluses are top-notch coffee, a short but winning wine list (more places should do grüner veltliner by the glass), and charming, on-the-ball waiting staff.
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What is 'following'?Transport Bond Street or Oxford Circus tube
020 7293 5077
Breakfast served 9.30-11.30am, lunch served noon-2.45pm, tea served 3-4.45pm Mon-Fri
Main courses £15-£18. Set tea £8.25-£13.25
Credit cards AmEx, DC, MC, V
Facilities
Babies and children admitted, Booking advisable ( lunch ), Disabled ( toilet )
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