Sweetings

Operating on the same site since 1889, Sweetings has scarcely changed over the years and is all the better for it. Bookings aren't taken, so arrive early - we prefer the back area (past the linen-covered side counters), where you'll be seated at monogrammed chairs at long tables, possibly beside the dumb waiter and elbow to elbow with a striped shirt (diners are predominantly City gents).

The short menu has a few nods to modernity, but in the main sticks to tradition: expect oysters, potted shrimps and prawn and crab cocktails to start, followed by excellent but simply cooked fish (poached or fried). Portions are substantial: skate wing with black butter sauce scarcely fitted on the plate, and swordfish with freshly made tomato salsa featured two big juicy steaks. Vegetables are simple (peas and mash, chips or potatoes) and puddings, unsurprisingly, are a public schoolboy's dream: crumble, spotted dick, bread and butter pud, and, on our summer visit, strawberries and cream.

Pricing is reasonable, fish sustainable and service friendly and solicitous - in short, Sweetings is an absolute old-fashioned treat.