Crane & Tortoise

At first glance, the Crane & Tortoise has much the feel of a chain bar with its modern leather chairs, high tables and personality-free white walls. The menu tells a different story, though - teriyaki, katsu curry, Japanese burgers and sushi are all available. Prices are pretty cheap too.

Though simple, our chazuke (green tea and rice soup) tasted just right, with plump rice, salty pickled plum and a cleansing broth. A dish of cured squid, bamboo shoots, shredded ginger and chilli packed a punch, with sweet, spicy and sour notes. Bite-sized beef cubes fried in garlic butter were perfectly cooked and tender, though a little bland.

Unlike the Yorkshire Grey pub a couple of doors away, the restaurant was far from busy on a Thursday evening - there was a handful of diners in the back room and a few Japanese men at the bar, making the most of the drinks list (Japanese beers and whiskey, Asian-inspired cocktails, saké, shochu and plum wine). A shame: for its reasonable food, value for money and attentive service, the place definitely deserves more customers.